Ph and Cleanser
February 14, 2024
WHAT ARE SOAPS?
Not every soap found on store shelves can genuinely be classified as soap. There are primarily two categories of cleansers – Soaps (Natural Soaps) and Syndets (Synthetic Detergents), and believe us, they are not identical!
According to the FDA, for a product to be classified as a ‘soap’, it must primarily consist of ‘alkali salts of fatty acids’, which is the result of combining fats and oils with an alkali like ‘lye’.
On the contrary, ‘Syndet’ is a combination of the words ‘Synthetic’ and ‘Detergent’. It refers to a cleansing product created by combining synthetic detergents.
While both ‘Soap’ and ‘Syndet’ serve as cleansing agents, they both have the tendency to dissolve the skin's natural protective fat layer during the cleansing process, yet they are fundamentally different. Why is that? Keep reading!
PH AND CLEANSERS!
Let’s begin by clarifying what pH represents. pH, or ‘potential hydrogen’, is a logarithmic scale that gauges the acidity or alkalinity of a substance! It ranges from 0 to 14, with values below 7 indicating acidity, values above 7 indicating alkalinity, and a value of 7 being neutral.
HOW DOES PH IMPACT SKINCARE?
Our skin possesses a delicate protective layer commonly referred to as the ‘acid mantle’ or ‘skin barrier’. This layer is made up of secretions from sweat glands, sebaceous glands (which produce sebum), and the breakdown of fatty acids by beneficial bacteria residing on our skin. The main role of the skin barrier is to retain beneficial elements like moisture while keeping harmful substances such as pollution, dirt, dust, debris, and grime at bay.
As the term ‘acid mantle’ implies, this skin barrier is acidic in nature. Healthy skin typically has a slightly acidic pH, ranging from 4.5 to 6.5 (with the scalp being even lower at around 3.5), which helps prevent the growth of harmful microbes and shields the skin from environmental stressors.
PH OF CLEANSERS!
As previously mentioned, cleansers can be broadly divided into organic/natural soaps and synthetic detergents (syndets). The key distinction between these two categories lies in their manufacturing processes. Natural soaps are produced through a straightforward reaction between plant oils and a strong alkali, resulting in an alkaline nature. Milder soaps typically have a pH of 8 – 10, while commercial soaps can reach pH levels as high as 13, making them harsher on the skin. In contrast, syndets are produced through a more complex reaction involving petroleum and plant oils, resulting in a pH that ranges from neutral to acidic.
JC handmade cold-pressed organic soaps are carefully crafted and maintain a pH level between 8 – 9.
HOW DOES CLEANSING AFFECT THE PH OF THE SKIN?
Whenever the skin comes into contact with an external substance that has a pH level either above or below its natural pH, it results in a change to the skin barrier’s inherent pH balance. However, since cleansers are in contact with the skin for only a brief period, they only have a temporary effect on the pH. Even water, which can have a pH between 6 and 8.5 depending on its source, can momentarily affect the acid mantle and the skin's surface.
Do you recall those laid-back days when you wash your face but skip applying moisturizer afterward? Initially, your skin feels dry, but after a while, it returns to a normal state. Have you ever wondered why that happens? This occurs because the skin starts to re-secrete the acid mantle and restore its natural pH. Each time the skin encounters slightly alkaline or acidic substances outside its usual pH range, a healthy barrier will typically rebalance itself within 15 to 30 minutes. (This information is based on insights from Dr. Zoe Draelos, as published in the "Dermatology Times" on April 1, 2011.)
DO CLEANSERS NEED TO BE PH BALANCED?
At JC, we believe that the choice is ultimately a matter of personal preference; however, we opt not to modify the natural pH of our cold-pressed superfatted cleansers. You might wonder why this is the case. The reason is that all cleansers, whether acidic or alkaline, tend to impact the skin's pH levels. Research indicates that when you wash with just water, the skin's pH can increase by 1.1 points. If you use an alkaline soap like ours, it can rise by 1.2 points, while washing with a synthetic soap bar, known as syndets (which are inherently acidic), results in a 0.98-point increase. Thus, all types of cleansers, whether traditional soaps or syndets, balanced or unbalanced, affect the skin's pH within a very similar range.
Additionally, the same research demonstrated that the regular use of traditional soaps does not interfere with the acid mantle's natural capacity to restore and maintain its mildly acidic state. (Takagi, Y., et al. [2014], "The Long-Term Use of Soap Does Not Affect the pH-Maintenance Mechanism of Human Skin" in Skin Research and Technology)
DOES TEMPORARY ALTERATION IN PH AFFECT SKIN HYDRATION?
Whenever we take a bath, the natural oils produced by our skin are also washed away, leading to a slight increase in pH levels, which can make the skin feel dry temporarily. However, this sensation is short-lived as the acid mantle begins to reform and restore balance. While cleansing can momentarily dry out the skin, research conducted on infants has indicated that genuine soaps do not significantly affect the hydration levels of the skin. In this particular study, babies were bathed using a) plain water, b) a mild acidic soap, and c) a standard alkaline soap. All three cleansing agents had a similar effect on the infants' skin, and no notable differences in skin hydration were recorded. (Gfatter, R., P. Hackl, and F. Braun, 1997, Effects of soap and detergents on skin surface pH, stratum corneum hydration and fat content in infants: Dermatology, v. 195, p. 258-62.)
Cold-pressed soaps, in fact, enhance the skin's capacity to retain moisture due to their high glycerin content. Pure soaps are created through a chemical reaction involving oils, water, and lye, which, when combined, transform into soap and glycerin, leaving no lye in the final product. Glycerin acts as a natural humectant, providing moisturizing properties while cleansing. It has excellent penetration and retention abilities, ensuring that the skin remains hydrated for extended periods. (Ventura, S. A. and Kasting, G. B. (2017), Dynamics of glycerine and water transport across human skin from binary mixtures. Int J Cosmet Sci, 39: 165-178.)
Our carefully crafted, cold-pressed soaps are super-fatted, meaning they contain free oils or fatty acids that help replenish the lipids and moisture lost during cleansing. Their mildly alkaline nature allows them to gently remove dirt without stripping away moisture. In fact, one study evaluated six different types of cleansers, ranging from highly alkaline to highly acidic. The findings revealed the following:
- A slight increase in pH was observed with alkaline soaps.
- All products caused a drying effect on the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the skin), but the super-fatted soaps exhibited less drying.
- Measurements of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) showed minimal changes.
- All alterations were completely reversible, with all values returning to normal within 90 minutes post-washing.
(Mirela Moldovan and Alina Nanu. “Influence Of Cleansing Product Type On Several Skin Parameters After Single Use.” Farmacia, 2010, Vol. 58, 1)
Another study assessed the ‘irritation potential’ of syndets and soaps with varying pH levels, yielding the following results:
- The least irritating syndet had a pH of 7.53.
- The most irritating syndet had a pH of 4.61.
- The least irritating soap had a pH of 12.35.
- The most irritating soap had a pH of 9.36.
(Abbas, S., Goldberg, J.W. and Massaro, M. [2004], Personal Cleanser Technology and Clinical Performance. Dermatologic Therapy, 17: 36-38)
Now, let’s address the crucial question: is pH the sole factor influencing the irritation potential of a cleanser?
The answer is a resounding no! The ingredients, their extraction methods, the chemistry between them, and the manufacturing process play significant roles in determining whether a cleanser is gentle or harsh on the skin. In fact, two soaps with identical compositions may still behave differently on your skin due to variations in the nature of the ingredients, their sources, and extraction methods, as well as how they are blended.
WHY SHOULD YOU EXPERIENCE OUR GOURMET SOAPS?
Our organic soaps are not just authentic soaps; they are also gourmet creations! These fresh, super-fatted soaps are handcrafted using the traditional cold process method, adhering to the simple saponification reaction between fats and alkali (lye). After production, the soaps are cured for eight weeks to ensure that no lye remains in the final product.
JC soaps are gentle, hydrating, and soothing for the skin, thanks to their rich content of fatty acids and glycerin.
WHAT IF THE SKIN BARRIER IS COMPROMISED?
Now that we have explored the connection between cleansing and a healthy acid mantle, let’s examine what occurs when the skin barrier is compromised! A compromised skin barrier indicates that the skin cannot effectively re-secrete oils after cleansing, resulting in prolonged alterations to the pH. When the skin barrier is unhealthy, cleansing should be followed by toning to help the skin restore its natural pH. For the face, floral waters such as rose or lavender water can assist, while an apple cider vinegar (ACV) rinse can help restore the acid mantle for the scalp.
In summary, it is safe to assert that our skin and scalp are quite adept at maintaining their own homeostasis (the body’s ability to regulate and adapt to environmental changes). Unless you are using harsh cleansers (which are excessively acidic or alkaline) that can genuinely harm your skin, the pH of most skin cleansers will not lead to long-term alterations in the skin's natural pH.
REFERENCES
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/srt.12170
"Retaining the acid mantle is only problematic in compromised barrier conditions." by Dr. Zoe 2011, Dermatology Times
(Takagi, Y., et al. [2014], "The Long-Term Use of Soap Does Not Affect the pH-Maintenance Mechanism of Human Skin" in Skin Research and Technology)
(Dr. Zoe Draelos: "Dermatology" April 1, 2011).
(Gfatter, R., P. Hackl, and F. Braun, 1997, Effects of soap and detergents on skin surface pH, stratum corneum hydration and fat content in infants: Dermatology, v. 195, p. 258-62.)
Ventura, S. A. and Kasting, G. B. (2017), Dynamics of glycerine and water transport across human skin from binary mixtures. Int J Cosmet Sci, 39: 165-178.
Mirela Moldovan and Alina Nanu. “Influence Of Cleansing Product Type On Several Skin Parameters After Single Use.” Farmacia, 2010, Vol. 58, 1
Abbas, S., Goldberg, J.W. and Massaro, M. [2004], Personal Cleanser Technology and Clinical Performance. Dermatologic Therapy, 17: 36-38
