All About Exfoliating Acids: AHA vs BHA

Achieving radiant, smooth, and healthy-looking skin is a common goal. While there's a myriad of skincare products promising just that, exfoliating acids, specifically AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) and BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids), stand out as effective and well-researched ingredients. They work by gently dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells, revealing the fresher, brighter skin underneath. This blog post will delve into the world of exfoliating acids, exploring the differences between AHAs and BHAs, their individual benefits, and how to incorporate them into your skincare routine for optimal results.

What are Exfoliating Acids?

Exfoliating acids are chemical exfoliants that help to remove dead skin cells from the surface and depths of your skin. Unlike physical scrubs that manually scrub away dead skin, chemical exfoliants use acids to dissolve the bonds holding those cells together. This process promotes cell turnover, leading to a smoother texture, improved skin tone, and a reduction in the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and blemishes.

AHA and BHA – What's the Difference?

The key difference between AHAs and BHAs lies in their solubility and how they interact with the skin:

AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids): These are water-soluble acids derived from natural substances like sugar cane, milk, or fruit. They primarily work on the surface of the skin, making them ideal for addressing concerns like dryness, sun damage, and fine lines.

BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids): These are oil-soluble acids, with salicylic acid being the most common example. BHAs can penetrate deeper into the pores, making them particularly effective for oily, acne-prone skin as they help to unclog pores and reduce inflammation.

AHA: Types and Benefits

AHAs offer a range of benefits for various skin concerns. Here are some common types and their specific advantages:

• Glycolic Acid: Derived from sugar cane, glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size of all AHAs, allowing it to penetrate the skin easily. It's highly effective for exfoliating, reducing fine lines, and improving skin texture.

• Lactic Acid: Derived from milk, lactic acid is a milder AHA that is great for sensitive skin. It exfoliates gently while also hydrating the skin.

• Mandelic Acid: Derived from bitter almonds, mandelic acid has a larger molecular size, making it gentler than glycolic acid. It's suitable for sensitive skin and can help with hyperpigmentation and acne.

• Tartaric Acid: Found in grapes, tartaric acid can help brighten the skin and even out skin tone.

• Citric Acid: Found in citrus fruits, citric acid is used to brighten skin, exfoliate, and adjust the pH balance of products.

Benefits of AHAs:

• Improved Skin Texture: AHAs smooth rough skin and promote a more even texture.

• Reduced Fine Lines and Wrinkles: By promoting collagen production, AHAs can minimize the appearance of aging.

• Brighter Skin Tone: AHAs help fade dark spots and hyperpigmentation, revealing a more radiant complexion.

• Increased Hydration: Some AHAs, like lactic acid, have humectant properties, attracting moisture to the skin.

How to Incorporate AHA into Your Routine

• Start Slowly: Begin by using an AHA product once or twice a week to assess your skin's tolerance.

• Choose the Right Product: Select a product with a concentration suitable for your skin type and concerns.

• Apply at Night: AHAs can increase sun sensitivity, so it's best to use them in your nighttime routine.

• Follow with Hydration: After applying an AHA, use a moisturiser to keep your skin hydrated and prevent dryness.

BHA: Types and Benefits

BHAs are oil-soluble acids that are best known for their ability to exfoliate inside the pores, making them ideal for acne-prone and oily skin.

• Salicylic Acid: The most common BHA, salicylic acid is derived from willow bark. It penetrates deep into pores to dissolve oil and dead skin cells, helping to prevent breakouts.

• Betaine Salicylate: A gentler alternative to salicylic acid, betaine salicylate offers similar exfoliating benefits with less irritation.

Benefits of BHAs:

• Acne Treatment and Prevention: BHAs unclog pores, reducing blackheads, whiteheads, and acne breakouts.

• Oil Control: BHAs help regulate sebum production, minimizing shine and preventing clogged pores.

• Reduced Inflammation: BHAs have anti-inflammatory properties, calming irritated and inflamed skin.

• Exfoliation: BHAs exfoliate both the surface of the skin and within the pores, leading to a thorough cleanse and smoother texture.

How to Incorporate BHA into Your Routine

• Start Slowly: Introduce BHA gradually, starting with once or twice a week.

• Use as a Spot Treatment: For targeted acne treatment, apply a BHA directly to blemishes.

• Apply Before Other Products: Apply BHA after cleansing and before other serums or moisturisers.

• Monitor for Dryness: BHAs can be drying, so adjust frequency if you experience excessive dryness or irritation.

Should You Use Both or One at a Time?

Whether you should use both AHAs and BHAs depends on your skin type and concerns.

One at a Time: If you have sensitive or dry skin, it's best to stick to one type of acid at a time to avoid irritation. AHAs are generally better for dry skin, while BHAs are more suitable for oily or acne-prone skin.

Both: If your skin can tolerate it, you can use both AHAs and BHAs to target multiple concerns. For example, you might use an AHA to improve skin texture and a BHA to control acne. 

How to Use Them Together

If you choose to use both AHAs and BHAs, consider these tips:

• Alternate Days: Use an AHA on one night and a BHA on another to minimize irritation.

• Use in Different Products: Incorporate AHAs in your cleanser or serum and BHAs in your toner or spot treatment.

• Start with the BHA: Apply the BHA first, allowing it to penetrate the pores, followed by the AHA.

• Monitor Your Skin: Pay close attention to how your skin responds and adjust the frequency or intensity of use as needed.

FAQs

1. Can I use AHA or BHA if I have sensitive skin?

Yes, but start with a low concentration and use it sparingly. Opt for gentler options like lactic acid (AHA) or betaine salicylate (BHA).

2. Can I use AHA/BHA with retinol?

It's generally not recommended to use them together in the same routine, as it can cause irritation. If you want to use both, alternate nights or use them at different times of the day.

3. What are the side effects of using exfoliating acids?

Possible side effects include redness, dryness, peeling, and increased sun sensitivity. Always use sunscreen when using exfoliating acids.

4. How long does it take to see results?

Results vary depending on the individual and the product, but you can typically start to see improvements in skin texture and tone within a few weeks of regular use.