Essential Oils

COMPREHENDING ESSENTIAL OILS

As the demand for ‘natural’ skincare and haircare products continues to grow, essential oils have gained significant attention. However, with this newfound recognition comes a plethora of questions concerning their safety, efficacy, and overall usefulness.

Let’s delve deeper into the realm of essential oils and clarify what they truly are.

WHAT ARE ESSENTIAL OILS?

Essential oils encapsulate the essence of a plant, reflecting its effects, flavor, and aroma. Depending on the specific plant, essential oils can be derived from various parts, including stems, leaves, buds, and flowers. These substances are highly volatile and necessitate careful handling. It’s crucial to keep in mind that essential oils are extremely concentrated.

In contemporary times, essential oils are incorporated into skincare, haircare, and bodycare products. They are also widely utilized in Aromatherapy, which we will explore in greater detail at a later date.

HOW ESSENTIAL OILS ARE EXTRACTED

Essential oils are obtained from different parts of plants through methods such as steam distillation, hydro distillation, and cold pressing, among others. Due to the delicate nature of essential oils, these extraction techniques ensure that the final product remains stable, sterile, and resistant to spoilage.

At Juicy Chemistry, we utilize essential oils that are extracted through steam distillation.

STEAM DISTILLATION

Steam distillation is a widely employed technique for extracting essential oils. In this process, water is heated until it transforms into steam, which then travels through the plant material, vaporizing the volatile compounds. This steam is subsequently directed through a coil where it condenses. The resulting liquid comprises both water and the essential oil.

The method of production and its execution significantly influence the purity and sterility of the essential oil. For more information on preservatives and our perspective on them, you can visit our blog here.

When it comes to essential oils, quality is paramount. As a consumer, it’s essential to choose pure, unadulterated essential oils to maximize their benefits. To identify high-quality essential oils, look for certifications and engage with the brand you are considering purchasing from. Open communication is key!

THEIR FUNDAMENTAL COMPONENTS

Essential oils are made up of a variety of compounds, including phenols, terpenes, flavanols, tannins, and more. Each of these compounds contributes to specific characteristics of the essential oil, whether it’s a particular scent or the oil’s anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, or calming properties.

PHENOLS

Phenols are a category of aromatic organic compounds present in essential oils. Compounds like Tannins, Flavonoids, and Flavonols fall under the umbrella of polyphenols. Tannins, commonly found in certain herbs and plants, are recognized for their astringent qualities, while Flavonoids and Flavonols are celebrated for their antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects. These compounds also exhibit antioxidant properties, helping to neutralize the impact of free radicals.

TERPENES

Terpenes represent a significant portion of essential oils overall. They largely contribute to the aromatic characteristics of the essential oil in question. Similar to Phenols, Terpenes also possess antifungal and antioxidant properties. There are various types of terpenes.

Monoterpenes

Citrus oils predominantly contain monoterpenes. This class of terpenes is known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, analgesic, antiseptic, and antibacterial properties. If you examine the ingredient lists of certain perfumes and beauty products, you may come across components such as Linalool, Citral, Citronellal, and Limonene, all of which are monoterpenes.

Sesquiterpenes

Sesquiterpenes are commonly found in many essential oils, including Lavender, Cedarwood, and Frankincense oils. They are generally less volatile than monoterpenes. In contrast to the bright and fresh scents of monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes are recognized for their calming and relaxing fragrances.

THE UNCERTAINTY SURROUNDING ESSENTIAL OILS

DERMAL LIMITATIONS

Essential oils frequently find themselves at the center of debate due to their volatile characteristics and intricate compositions. It is widely acknowledged that their application should be stringently regulated and approached with care and caution. Indeed, certain components can occasionally cause sensitization, and individuals with sensitive skin may discover that products containing essential oils are not the most suitable option for them. This principle can also apply to a broad range of synthetic ingredients.

While we concur and advocate for caution regarding essential oils, we firmly oppose the perspective that labels ‘natural’ or ‘organic’ ingredients as either harmful or ineffective. When it comes to essential oils, there exists a diverse array of safety protocols, regulations, and guidelines that we diligently follow at Juicy Chemistry.

Numerous research studies support the notion that essential oils can be advantageous for the skin; however, it is crucial to comprehend the dosage of oils utilized in a product formulation.

So, what is the appropriate quantity of essential oils that should be included in your products? This leads us back to dermal limitations. A dermal limit refers to the maximum allowable percentage of an essential oil that can be incorporated into a product. This limit differs from one oil to another and from product to product (it varies for leave-on versus rinse-off products). According to the guidelines set forth by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA), essential oils should be used in low dilutions in skincare formulations and should not exceed 5% of the product. While this represents the upper limit, you will typically find that a dilution range of 0.1% to 3% is common.

Whenever you are considering the purchase of a product containing essential oils, always inquire with the brand about the percentage of essential oils or any other ingredient that you suspect may cause a reaction with your skin. Make well-informed purchasing choices!

At Juicy Chemistry, we utilize all essential oils judiciously within their dermal limits. For example, if a product contains four essential oils, their combined percentage will adhere to the dermal limit rather than each oil being considered individually.

ARE ESSENTIAL OILS POSSIBLE IRRITANTS OR ALLERGENS?

Given the intricate nature of essential oils, it is conceivable that specific components of an oil could irritate your skin. However, this largely depends on the particular oil being utilized and its dosage.

The concentration of allergens and sensitizers varies from oil to oil and has its own dermal limit. This ensures that the product formulation does not become overly concentrated. For instance, Geraniol, which is present in oils like Geranium, has a dermal limit of 2.8% for facial applications and 5.3% for body use. (This percentage pertains to the compound itself, not the final concentration of the essential oil in the product). For example, in our Saffron & Red Raspberry day oil, the percentage is 0.068, which is significantly below the permitted dermal limit.

A total of 26 distinct allergens and sensitizers have been identified by IFRA, with 16 of these found in essential oils. The dermal limits for each allergen are clearly defined, along with specific calculation methods that must be followed to remain within IFRA’s allowable limits, depending on whether the product is intended for leave-on or rinse-off use.

How do we ensure that allergens remain within their designated limits?

We adhere to IFRA standards to calculate the percentage of allergens in our final products and compare it against their permissible limits. A series of calculations is conducted to determine compliance.

Are essential oils beneficial for the skin when used with care and caution? Absolutely! Essential oils have been shown to provide numerous therapeutic and skincare advantages when applied topically. A wealth of research and studies validate the benefits of essential oils in topical skincare formulations.

PHOTOTOXICITY

Concerning essential oils—especially citrus varieties such as Lime, Lemon, and Grapefruit essential oils—there are concerns regarding their phototoxicity. Certain compounds, known as furanocoumarins, present in these oils absorb UV light more effectively than the skin, leading to potential reactions. The phototoxicity of an oil is influenced by the extraction method used. Essential oils obtained through steam distillation are not phototoxic, whereas those that are cold-pressed may be.

USING ESSENTIAL OILS

Essential oils are highly versatile and can be used in a wide variety of products and formulations. You can also mix essential oils with carrier oils by yourself and create your own oil blend.

HOW TO USE EOS ON YOUR OWN

One thing you need to be very mindful of with essential oils is that you should never use them on their own! Never apply an essential oil directly to your skin, it could cause irritation, burns, and inflammation. Instead, what you should do is that you should mix a plant oil - also known as a carrier oil (it carries the essential oil) and then use it. Examples of carrier oils are:

1.Coconut oil
2. Jojoba oil
3. Avocado oil
4. Olive oil
5. Apricot oil
6. Almond oil

When mixing oils on your own, we would advise you to follow IFRA guidelines and standards as well. Do not add to much of an essential oil.

We would also not recommend ingesting essential oils and advise you to store them in a cool, dark, and dry place. Given their volatile nature, we store our oils in dark amber glass bottles and would advise you to take similar precautions.

PATCH TEST

Before using a product that contains essential oils or a blend you have created yourself on your face or scalp, it is crucial to perform a patch test. You can never be certain about what you might be sensitive to, so it’s always better to err on the side of caution. It’s possible that you could have an allergic reaction to specific plant oils or essential oils.

Here’s how to conduct a patch test:

1. Apply a small quantity of carrier oil/product/mixture to the inner part of your wrist or just beneath your ear.
2. Cover the area with a bandage.
3. Revisit the area after 24 hours.
4. If you experience any irritation, rinse the area thoroughly and refrain from using the product in the future.

OUR CHEMISTRY

At Juicy Chemistry, we are exceptionally meticulous about our formulations, ingredient percentages, and adhere strictly to safety guidelines and standards. Our essential oils are obtained from certified organic farms and are in their purest, most unadulterated state. We recommend using essential oils (and any other JC product) while they are still within their shelf life. Once a product has been opened, we suggest using it within 6 months.

We conduct thorough research to ensure that our products are both effective and safe for consumer use.

Additionally, our products undergo dermatological testing for safety and irritation.

While our formulations and ingredients are non-toxic and safe, we advise expecting and breastfeeding mothers to consult with their dermatologist before using any product that contains essential oils. If you have sensitive skin, it is also advisable to avoid products that include essential oils. Acknowledging that some individuals may be unable or unwilling to use products with essential oils, we are excited to announce that we will be launching a line that is free from essential oils!

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT OUR ESSENTIAL OILS

Here are some common questions that many people have regarding our products, particularly concerning the presence of essential oils.

The scent of my product changes over time

With products like soaps, you may notice that the scent evolves over time. This does not indicate that the product has spoiled. Since we do not incorporate any artificial fragrances into our products, their aroma is derived from their natural ingredients—such as butters, plant oils, herbal extracts, and essential oils. Due to the volatile nature of essential oils, their scent may change or diminish over time, which is entirely normal.

How can you tell if an essential oil has gone bad?

Essential oils can deteriorate when exposed to oxygen or UV light, which is why we store them in amber glass bottles. When an essential oil spoils, you will likely observe changes in its aroma, texture, and color. If you notice any significant alterations, it is best to dispose of the oil immediately.

At Juicy Chemistry, we believe it is our duty to educate and inform our JC family about the significance of the ingredients we utilize. While essential oils have sparked some debate, we maintain that they are highly effective yet delicate compounds that require careful handling. If you have any questions regarding our products, formulations, or ingredients, please feel free to reach out to us via email or connect with us on social media!